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Not far from Bloody Bay Wall, just a few hundred yards off Cayman Brac, lies the Russian Frigate 356, more commonly referred to as the Captain Keith Tibbets. The 330 foot ship was purchased from Cuba and intentionally sunk as an artificial reef in 1996. She lies on her side in about 80 feet of water, with her starboard hull reaching up to about 40 feet. Such shallow depths are unique for a ship of this size. Snorkeling members of the family will finally get a good look at something they would ordinarily miss out on.
It’s amusing to note that most dive boats we employed in the Caymans are not equipped with depth sounders. This is both a testament to the extensive mooring system installed by the government, as well as to the crystal clear water of the Caymans. In fact, even without the mooring balls, finding the Tibbets would be pretty easy since you can see the wreck in detail from above the surface.
Though a fairly young wreck, the Tibbets is adorned with sponges and coral, and has quickly become home to many species of fish. To one side of the wreck is a coral reef, making the ship easily accessible to all of the reef’s diverse inhabitants. To the other side is open sand, the favorite stomping—or should we say flying— grounds of Caymanian stingrays.
Originally sunk in 1996, the ship landed soundly, but an intense 2004 hurricane season broke the ship into several pieces. Though some would consider this less impressive, we think it makes for even better exploring. The broken up pieces of aluminum offer welcome asylum to the ocean’s smaller inhabitants.
The superstructure of the ship is fairly intact, especially the impressive radar tower. It must be the similarity to the intricacies of a reef that draws thousands of schooling fish here. As we approach the top of the tower, the fish seem completely unfazed by our presence. As if in some kind of stupor, the fish begin to circle us as though we were part of the tower. Very cool.
And then there are the guns. No Russian frigate would be complete without giant turrets fore and aft. If you’ve ever thought you might need a wide angle lens, here’s your excuse: a picture of you decked out in your fancy gear hovering over a dual barrel Communist enforcer. Staring down those barrels will make you wonder how “Cold” the War actually was.
Buccaneer, Cayman Brac
Among Cayman Brac’s other diving jewels is Buccaneer. Its shallow depths make it a perfect second dive. But like most things Cayman, Buccaneer is anything but ordinary. Individual coral formations—each hosting its own tiny ecosystem—combine to form a metropolis of life. In many ways, diving Buccaneer is like swimming through a city with different neighborhoods, each with its own flair.
If you look hard you’ll find that many of the formations have small caves in them. Shining a light into a small hole illuminates not only the squirrel fish sentry, but reveals that the hole is actually a tiny doorway to a large cavernous area inside the limestone. Macro photographers can easily entertain themselves by hanging out here until they run out of air, recording the action as the cavern’s residents come and go.
“The morning dives on the Brac seem to be about the wide-angle vistas. A shipwreck or a wall festooned with massive sponge formations,” Frink says. “But I like to slip away in the afternoon with my macro lens to dive the diverse sites off Stake Bay. Here are flying gurnards, blennies, and bold tiger grouper at cleaning stations. The fish enthusiast will be well occupied at these reefs!”
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