Above the water adventures on Grand Cayman

Standing ankle deep in the soft sand of Seven Mile Beach, staring out at those azure Caymanian waters, it’s hard to imagine that the shallows give way to the deepest water in the Caribbean. The Cayman Islands are actually the peaks of giant underwater volcanic mountains that lie along the 25,000 foot deep Cayman Trench to the south of Grand Cayman. To the north is the 6,500 foot deep Yucatan Trench. These deep, fast moving ocean channels explain why the Cayman Islands enjoy such crystal clear water.

Seven Mile Beach is the most developed in all the Caymans. Perhaps this is because enterprising hotel developers realized its spotless beauty. It turns out that Seven Mile Beach is actually only about five and a half miles long, but who’s counting anyway? We’re in the islands!

The beautiful, casuarina shaded Seven Mile Beach is just the beginning of a host of above the water opportunities on Grand Cayman—from crowded shopping to intimate boutiques, botanical gardens to the rocky town of “Hell” (yes, there’s really a town there by that name, and it’s really much nicer than you might imagine).

The most intense shopping is along South Church Street where the cruise ship tenders spill their passengers onto Georgetown’s docks. We recommend the pleasure of investigating the Duty Free Mall’s corridors later in the afternoon after the cruise ships’ passengers have returned to their ships. Walk a few hundred feet up any of the cross streets, and you’ll find more unique shopping and galleries with one-of-a-kind artwork.

If you’re like the Frink family, you’re probably more interested in tropical adventure than in the hustle and bustle of downtown Georgetown. Fortunately, rescue is nearby. Just hop in a taxi and drive straight to Smith’s Cove on South Sound. There you’ll find a tiny beach and great snorkeling around iron shore. Lexy can’t resist the urge to leap off the rocky shore and investigate the beautiful, coral and sponge lined swim through that her father tells her she’d find. Plan the trip at low tide and you’ll be able to swim through this little tunnel without diving beneath the surface.

In a search for lush tropical flora, fauna and wildlife we find the Botanic Park and Mastic Trail. The 65 acre Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park hosts a spectacular array of native and non-native Cayman flora and fauna. As we stand in front of a shimmering waterfall, the sounds of birds chirping are interrupted only by the clicks of our camera shutters. An iguana habitat, nature trail, and an authentic Cayman home and garden are some of the park’s other attractions. Nearby Mastic Trail is a pleasant two mile long trail that winds through similar foliage.

Believe it or not, just over a year ago, these verdant trails were flattened by the 130 mile per hour winds of Hurricane Ivan. But nature is a magical thing and these storms that are so tragic when they happen, give way to new, healthy plants that grow even more beautiful than their predecessors. Likewise, the destruction the storm wreaked on the manmade parts of the Island has been met by rebuilding things bigger and better than they were before.

The Cayman Turtle Farm is a perfect example of this rebounding. The Turtle Farm, a long-time must see for any visitor to Grand Cayman, is undergoing a metamorphosis. The Farm’s new complex, Boatswain’s Beach, will include, but go well beyond sea turtle farming when it opens in January 2006. Boatswain’s Beach will be an incredible center of adventure. Among its new attractions are a predator reef, crocodile marsh, and an aviary. At the predator reef, visitors will snorkel around an artificial reef separated by six inches of bulletproof glass from a predator tank.

On our visit there with the Frink family, Ken Hydes of the Turtle Farm, gives us a sneak peak inside the new sections. “At Boatswain’s Beach and the Turtle Farm we’re trying to create an authentically Cayman experience,” Hydes says. We discover that a new turtle habitat, consisting of a giant lagoon and a nesting beach for the turtles to naturally lay their eggs, is already operational. In the lagoon, giant turtles, some weighing as much as 600 pounds, pose eagerly for our cameras.

If you get a chance to visit before the new construction is complete, you will not be disappointed. The opportunity to observe and interact with the turtles proved irresistible for the entire Frink family and our crew. Founded in 1968, the farm raises turtles for commercial sale, and at the same time, conducts research, rescue, and protection programs, which they receive consistent acclaim for. Sure, their missions sound a little ironic together, but as one divemaster points out, “I think this is the only country where we eat our national symbol.” Turtles have always been a staple in the Caymans and central to commerce. The Turtle Farm is central to any vacation there.

The morning before our noontime flight back to Fort Lauderdale, we decide to make one last stop at the Butterfly Farm. Paul Sawyer, this magazine’s designer and topside photographer, insists that he needs some colorful pictures to liven up the pages (as if the week of diving fluorescent colored reefs was not enough). He meets some resistance to the idea of a “butterfly adventure,” but once we enter the butterfly habitat, everyone admits that they are glad they came.

We were lucky to visit at the same time as a five-year-old girl who turned out to be a butterfly expert. Although the farm’s friendly keepers will take you around, we couldn’t help but pay more attention to the insight our young guide shared. Butterflies and moths, each sporting a rainbow of iridescent colors, fly around an enclosed habitat created especially for them. The Farm’s gift shop contains a unique selection of butterfly inspired art, books and gifts.

If only kids could appreciate lying on a beach with no meetings to attend, calls to return, or places to be. Fortunately, Grand Cayman offers an alternative: the Black Pearl Skate Park. 60,000 square feet of concrete awaits skaters of all levels. There are bowls, pipes, street courses, and a host of other obstacles. According to the park’s website, they’re the second largest outdoor skate park in the world and we don’t doubt it as we stand on the observation deck peering over this sprawling concrete city.

Beside the skate park stands Black Pearl’s other jewel, a Waveloch —one of the highlights of Lexy’s vacation. The Waveloch is a surfing machine, which generates an artificial wave that allows riders to surf or boogie board on specially designed “flowboards.” An intricate system of pumps and nozzles blasts a thin sheet of water—just a few inches deep—over a contoured bottom to form a barreling wave. By blasting up to 150,000 gallons of water per minute, Black Pearl can create a barreling wave as high as 11 feet—that’s one foot higher than the next most powerful machine like it in South Africa. To put that amount of water in perspective, fire hoses rarely exceed 100 gallons per minute. 150,000 divided by 100—that’s 1,500 fire hoses. Wow!

As we watch two experienced surfers show off their skills, Steve tries to convince Lexy to give it a whirl, “Come on Lex, it’ll be fun.” Staring at the barreling wave, Lexy didn’t seem so sure. Fortunately, Noah our copywriter comes to the rescue. We’re not sure if his motivation was selfish or not, but he offers to ride the wave first if Lexy agrees to follow. The temptation to see Noah wipe out was too great, and she consents to the deal. After just two failed attempts he is cruising up and down the wave. Lexy soon follows suit, but looks like a pro right away. Her gigantic smile reveals that the wave is only scary to look at. The crowd of spectators that had gathered around the pool seemed to be enjoying themselves as much as the riders. Wiping out on the gigantic wave is not as much fun, but thanks to the specially designed, cushioned pool bottom, riders get spit out unharmed.